Showing posts with label Easter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Easter. Show all posts

Saturday, April 14, 2012

A Weekend in the Country (of Austria)

    As you may recall, my last post was written (or published, rather) upon the eve of my departure for a weekend visiting my dear friend and fellow Californian Andrea, a Fulbrighter in Vienna, for Easter, to be followed by a day hopping around Salzburg with fellow Californian and Münchner Leigh. Okay, so I've been back for nearly a week, but hey, it's taken nearly that long to recover from such a fun weekend! I'll stop enticing you with hints about how fun it was and just get straight to the stories.

     Let's back up eight days. Dark and early last Friday morning (5:10 AM, to be precise), I awoke to the cheery sounds of dear Eric Clapton singing Wonderful Tonight (my phone has a limited amount of very random music from its previous owner), crawled out of bed and into the shower, and 50 minutes later was whisked away on the bus to meet my ride at a distant U-Bahn station, heavy backpack in tow. Just to be entirely accurate in setting the scene, it was pouring rain. Meeting my ride (a pleasant Slovakian man in his late-20s) went smoothly, and we set off, along with two fellow riders, to Vienna. Four hours (and several naps) later, we were deposited at the southernmost U-Bahn station on the Vienna public transport system, and an hour-long U-Bahn and Straßenbahn adventure later, I arrived at Andrea's beautiful apartment in the heart of the second district of Vienna.

    Let me tell you, as fun as traveling and seeing new places is, one of the best parts of traveling is when you can go to a place entirely new and be welcomed by a wonderful friend! It makes it seem so much more homey than wandering dismally around a strange city with a backpack and guidebook in tow.  Andrea's apartment is GORGEOUS, and I was welcomed with snacks and drinks and my own key for my stay.

    My decision to visit on Easter weekend meant that of course Andrea had a plethora of church choir rehearsals and services to attend, so before her first obligation we headed out for a short sightseeing tour, beginning with lunch at a super cute, friendly, and delicious cafe near Karlsplatz.

Beautiful friend!

The friendly waitress who took this insisted on clearing the table first so the picture would look nicer without our dishes on it. She was super cool.


     After a delicious lunch of salmon and potatoes (in Austrian dialect, literally earth-apples), we headed out to see the city (whilst walking conveniently in the direction of Andrea's church, which, you know, just happens to be the largest and famous-est cathedral in the whole city...NBD). Sadly the weather was less than ideal (read: cold and far wetter than is ordinarily enjoyable), but we pushed bravely onwards and wended our way through Karlsplatz, past the opera, and down Kärtnerstraße to Stephansplatz and the beautiful Stephansdom.

Stephansdom

Stephansdom reflection in the glass windows of shop-across-the-street-whose-name-I-cannot-recall

Blurry interior of the cathedral

    I accompanied Andrea to her choir rehearsal and stayed to watch for twenty minutes or so, then headed out to see some of the city on my own. Armed with an eleven-year-old guidebook pilfered from the bookshelf in my room, I set off to see what I could, doing my best to follow a suggested walk around the inner city and planning to head over to walk along the Donau (Danube) for a bit before heading back to Andrea's apartment to sort out a (so I thought) small problem preventing me from withdrawing any money.

Pestsäule (plague pillar) built by Emperor Leopold I when the plague struck in city in 1679 


View of the City Hall across the park


Yes, at concerts in Vienna there are flying ballerinas (note upper right corner)

Oh hey there, Maria Theresa

Austrian parliament

I love you Munich, but Vienna's Rathaus may sort of have the edge on yours

Martenitsi! Friendly piece of Bulgaria in Vienna

Votivkirche, built in celebration of a failed assassination attempt

Oops


Monument to honorable German soldiers

Hey there Danube!

Pretty blue and beautiful

coughTOURISTcough

When I walked down an island path only to find this at the dead end...I wasn't brave enough to jump across

Gorgeous church that came out of nowhere upon crossing the river (mainly because I was heading west when I'd thought I was heading east...)

     At around 8 PM, tired and starving (the banking hiccup sent me about my day with a whopping 50 cents in my pocket), I walked back to Andrea's apartment and sat down to call the bank and sort out the issue, which I assumed was a standard I-hadn't-used-my-debit-card-in-four-months-and-they'd-forgotten-I-was-in-Europe problem, generally easy enough to sort out.

     However, ten minutes with a bank representative later, I realized the problem was more complex than I'd thought. It appears there had been a security issue with somewhere I'd used my card and the bank had, ever so helpfully, shut down the card altogether. "Don't worry," said the helpful bank representative, "a new card should be arriving at your residence sometime soon." This very helpful and reassuring to someone currently about 6000 miles away from her "residence."  I tried further to extract a PIN number so I could use my credit card (most places don't accept credit cards in Europe, and if they do, they generally require a PIN number), and was told, also helpfully, that it was a security issue to give out numbers over the phone so they would mail said PIN number to my residence. It was about then I realized I was effectively without ANY money in a foreign city. I panicked for a couple hours until Andrea came home and kindly made me some delicious (American!) macaroni and cheese, then we called my parents, who kindly and almost immediately deposited money in Andrea's bank account for her to withdraw for me. So thankfully, all's well that ends well. If it had come down to it, at least I had purchased my train ticket to Salzburg online and in advance, so I could have at least gotten home, but it would have been a rough three days without ANY food. I'm just so thankful it happened staying with a friend, not alone somewhere! 

    Problem solved, we went to sleep. The next day dawned again rather disagreeably, weather-wise, and after promising to meet Andrea at the end of her rehearsal (oh the joys a musician experiences during Easter weekend!), I set off to experience the joys of the Naschmarkt, Vienna's huge open-air market, spanning almost a kilometer-long stretch down the center of one of the busiest streets. The sheer amount of people in a famous European city on a holiday weekend made it more of a slog than anything, but I got to see all the cool food and goods for sale, and even picked up a 5 euro "cashmere" (yeah right) scarf for my pains.  Afterwards I meandered back down to meet Andrea, stopping to see the opera house on the way. We headed out for nourishment at the same cafe as the day before, this time drinking the most amazing chai latte I have ever had in my entire life x 23498274583. Like, seriously. If you are planning on visiting Vienna, please call me or Andrea so we can tell you how to find this latte. 




Viennese opera!

Terrifying look on my face due to trying to center that. Taken outside of the apartment where Mozart wrote Figaro, by the way, but wasn't much to look at.




   After a flurry of rain forced us back to Andrea's for a lazy afternoon of haircuts, pasta, and Modern Family, Andrea headed out for her evening rehearsal and service, and I lazed around for awhile, then headed out to watch the Easter Vigil service Andrea was singing in at the cathedral. To keep that explanation brief, I do not think there is ever an excuse for a three-hour service, but it was pretty nice regardless. And I got holy water thrown at me by a cardinal, so I feel like it was a win. The first portion of the service was all conducted by candlelight (a cathedral full of several thousand people all with candles is a fairly impressive sight, even if that coupled with occasionally scary organ music and huge chandeliers does feel slightly like something out of a horror movie), and at the end when the cardinal gave the various versions of "Christ is risen" in several different languages, I was just about the only person to give the English answer, but I did it! We headed home sleepily in the wee hours of Easter morning.

    Much too early the next morning alarms went off, and we headed off in our respective directions: Andrea to more church and I to the train station to catch my train to Salzburg to meet Leigh.  After a hurried U-Bahn ride I arrived at the main train station far too early (the way I like it; I treat train travel like plane flights, time-wise) and settled into my cozy seat with my chocolate croissant, hoping to manage to nap the 2 hours and 45 minutes to Salzburg. But alas, 'twas not to be. Though I had intentionally chosen a seat in a "quiet" compartment, a tourist family from Italy? Greece? Spain? chose to ignore the fairly-easy-to-understand icon all over the compartment of a finger on lips (is that fairly universal or is it just me?) and let their four-year-old child talk at the tops of its lungs, scream, cry, howl, and run maniacally up and down the aisles. THE ENTIRE TRIP. I was less than pleased. But regardless, I arrived promptly at 11 in the train station in Salzburg, amid flurries of snow that had been slowly coating the ground throughout the train ride.

     Leigh and I met up without a hitch and walked into the city to catch a late Easter mass at the Salzburg Cathedral, randomly hearing a guest high school choir from Pennsylvania sing for the service. (Bogoroditsye Devo for communion on Easter? Is that really a good choice?) I'm getting pretty good at faking my way through a German Catholic church service. We ventured out into the snow for a while, walking through a beautiful snowy little graveyard and visiting a couple churches, and then the cold got the better of us and we headed into a little Indian/Austrian/Italian restaurant (the same Andrea and I visited in November, as a matter of fact), and holed up there for the next three hours or so.

Altar at the Salzburger Dom

Snowy fortress

Süß little snow graveyard



Pretty little city

    We met up with an old friend of Leigh's at the restaurant and spent the rest of the day together, doing what true Europeans do when the weather's bad. Stay inside and drink cappuccinos. After a brief excursion up a hill to see the city from above, we headed into a comfy little cafe for cappuccinos and Kaiserschmarrn (delicious Bavarian funnel cake-like concoction with raisins, nuts, applesauce, powdered sugar, und so weiter). From there we ventured briefly into the nearby gardens of Schloss Mirabell, famous for being where the Do-Re-Mi scene of Sound of Music was filmed! 





Do mi mi, mi so so, re fa fa, la ti ti! 

    After that we headed to a incredibly smokey but small and friendly Belgian bar to meet another of Leigh's friends, and we stayed and socialized for an hour and a half or so before Leigh and I headed back through the cold to the train station to catch the last train back to Munich that night. 

    And there you have my adventurous Austrian weekend! Though I'll be the first to admit my views of cheap plane travel in Europe were completely false, I'm slowly learning there are ways to get around it. Total transportation costs to and from Vienna and Salzburg: 49 Euros. Win! 

    And now here I am back in Munich, enjoying a full week behind me of rain (and a full week ahead as well). Oh spring, where have you gone? Nothing much new to report except to look forward to a weekend retreat with my choir in the Black Forest, coming up in a couple more weekends. In the meantime, a happy easter to you all!   

Thursday, April 5, 2012

My Brain May Be Melting (Which Accounts for the Disorderliness of this Entry!)

     I confess to having been most anxious for this week to end. It's Osterferien (Easter break), which means that while the kids still go to the kindergarten (which runs with work schedules rather than school schedules), I don't have language class this week or next week. Most of my friends are out of town, Nate's in Greece at a conference, depriving me of two-three hours daily of Skyping, and I just have way too much free time and not enough to do with it. What's more, dark and early tomorrow (Friday) morning I take off for Vienna to visit the lovely Andrea Zomorodian for a couple of days, Easter Sunday and Monday in Salzburg with Leigh, then Nate comes Tuesday for a three-day visit. So basically, I need to tough it through till then. The worst part about fun things happening is how long it takes for them to come!

     Last weekend was good fun, however. Friday night was a fairly brief trip out to an Irish pub in town, which was probably a mistake, as it's packed even when it's not Friday night. We could barely move. The live music of the night was a band of three old guys and two hot (relatively speaking) young girls, one of whom was the lead singer, the other the keyboardist (if you can apply that term to someone who played with only her right hand the entire time). Their repertoire consisted entirely of very typical American songs, which of course the Germans all loved. If they had played in an American bar, they'd have been booed offstage for their choices (I think), but here was a different story. Some memorable songs included "Sweet Dreams," "Valerie," "Livin' on a Prayer," "Hit the Road, Jack," and "Don't Speak." I was amused.
     Saturday night I went out to see a play at the local English theater with my host mom and two friends of hers. We had dinner beforehand at an Afghan restaurant (which was incredible; if you've never had Afghan food, run, don't walk!) and then walked over to the theater, which is a small, intimate little place in the basement of a jazz club. The show was called "Boom!," an end-of-the-world piece about an Armageddon-like comet hitting the earth and destroying all human life with the exception of a nerdy marine biologist and a girl he met on a blind date (it was about as weird as it sounds, yes). It was quite a fun night. One of the women is a mom from Cliona's English kindergarten; she's Australian, married to a Spaniard, and moved here from India. And I think living a year in Germany is getting out of my comfort zone! It was fascinating to hear her stories, for sure. She's also the mother of triplets, which in a country wherein she barely speaks the language must be rough.
    Sunday was not very warm, but I headed into the city regardless and had a nice afternoon at an outdoor cafe (in the shade, sadly) with my crossword, cappuccino, and ice cream. I felt so German!


I also encountered my new favorite street artists: check them out here! www.konnexionbalkon.com/. They were incredible. And hilarious. I lovelovelovelovelove street musicians. And here, they're actually good!

The bassist danced most of the time and the violinist went up to people and scratched his violin in their faces. And made amazing facial expressions the whole time he played. I might be in love.




Being an au pair is pretty weird.  It's been, at this juncture, 7 months and 5 days since I moved to Germany. Sometimes that feels incredibly long, and sometimes ridiculously short. To be honest, I'm still not totally comfortable living here. There's just something odd about perpetually being a guest in a home. Not that they treat me like a guest, but it can be a weird feeling. I'm living with my employers. Part of the terms of my employment involve encountering their undergarments on a fairly regular basis (only when clean, fortunately. I'm spared doing anything involving dirty laundry). If I don't come out of my room and up to get breakfast until 11 on a Saturday morning, I feel sort of funny about it (and may occasionally try to hide).

     It's an interesting change to live with a family that isn't mine, because it definitely hampers one's social life. Whereas when living on one's own, it's the easiest thing to say, "I don't feel like going out tonight. It's expensive and tiring and plus, it's raining. I'll just invite friends over for pizza and we can watch a movie." But that doesn't exactly fly when dwelling in a home that's not your own. Choices are go out or stay in. I occasionally get stuck in that freshman-year-of-college mindset where I feel like a total loser if I stay in on a Friday night (though let's be real, the duties of an au pair leave me freedom to go out and make whatever poor choices I want on any night of the week), and for the first few months I was afraid my family would judge me if I stayed in too much and think I was depressed or a hermit or something like that. I do make an effort to go out two or three times a week at least, but when your monthly income leaves you about 50 euros a week to spend (and in an expensive city like Munich, one night of dinner and beer can suck most of that down), it is prudent to choose those nights wisely.
      Another duty of an au pair is lots of babysitting. And though I know I should be a typical party girl and moan and complain about having to stay in, babysitting is wonderful. It's the perfect excuse to stay in, cook a nice meal (which I rarely do when the family's home), drink a glass of wine, watch a TV show...I think I'm getting old.


A few choice quotes from this week:

Cliona: "Boys! Boys are silly! Die Jungs sind nicht lieb. Sie sind BÖSE!"(Those boys are not good. They are BAD BOYS!)

"You a silly girl!"

"You make a pups! You do! I put my kopf on your belly and they give noises!"

German Babytalk Potty-Related Words (for your personal edification):

pups (pronounced poops)=toot
kaka=poop
pipi=pee. Also refers to both boy and girl private parts

Kilian was being a total brat the other day when he got home from his friends and got mad at me when I refused to make him what he requested for dinner. (I'm not a maid. What's for dinner is what's for dinner. I don't take requests.) So he stuck out his tongue and stormed upstairs and slammed his door. Cliona looks slyly at me and says, "Kilian is rude. He is (whispered) blöd!!!" (means stupid, but is a verboten word for children to say!)

     Cliona's also had a rough week coming home; I think she's maybe just not adjusted to the time change yet or something. A couple days this week she cried most of the way home, interspersed by "I not crying!!" "Yes you are!" "I not!"(all the while sobbing, of course). One day her point of anger was that she wanted to go into people's yards and pick the flowers and Meanie Laura wouldn't let her. Oy.
 
     Sadly the weather's been rather cold and rainy this week (with threatened SNOW on Easter! What happened to my springtime?), but we got in some good park time last week and a couple days this week.  I wish the kids were a tad older when it comes to park-playing, because then I could sit and read the whole time (wishful thinking), but Cliona still needs pushing on the swings every now and then and stuff like that. She's also too young to have mastered the knack of finding kids to play with, so she sort of just stands there mournfully watching the other little girls play. She does love running down the hill, preferably with me (though if I refuse, she insists I watch and laugh. Literally. "Und lachen! Ok? Ok?") and spinning in a circle (which terrifies me, as her idea of spinning is my spinning her by the arms, and I have visions every time of dislocated shoulders, though so far so good). There's also a slide at her favorite park which I consider to be a death trap for three-year-olds. It's just two metal poles in the shape of a slide, and the idea is you hook a leg and an arm over each pole and slide down like that. Watching Cliona lurch down by herself is almost heart-stoppingly terrifying, and I wait every second for her to lose control and fall on her head and break her neck, so I've forbidden her to go down without me standing under her. I don't know what the people who designed the playground were thinking. Not to be an overly litigious American, but man, put something like that on a jungle gym in the states and there would be lawsuits flying!

     Speaking German handicaps my personality. In English, I consider myself a fairly well-spoken, eloquent person, and my natural personality shines through fairly easily. Yes, you can interpret that as you wish, based on your knowledge of my personality. I'm snarky and sarcastic and somewhat of a class clown. But oh, not in German. In German, I'm well-mannered, reticent, quiet, hesitant to express my opinion. And sometimes I resent it. When the mean older woman who sits next to me in choir tells me (wrongly) that I messed up a note, I would very much like to have a swift witty retort involving the five places she screwed up most recently (true story. Do not even get me started on that woman). But I don't. My German is good, but not good enough for snarky, quick, under-the-breath-during-a-rehearsal comments. I can't make jokes, I can't give clever answers. Or I could, if everyone would patiently wait fifteen seconds between every line of a conversation. But that's not how things work.

       I am so incredibly lucky to somehow have chanced upon a family to own even more books than my own family. Like, seriously. This house is a freaking library. Terrified at the thought of heading overseas for a year without my beloved books, I packed as many as the leftover weight in my suitcase would allow, but lo and behold, I got to take most of them back home with me in November because my family has them! I've really excelled during this rather boring week and have read about...8 books in the last three days. Doing pretty well, I'd say. I'm currently having a lot of fun reading lots and lots of Ian McEwan, as well as any Holocaust/Cold War novels I can get my hands on. There are also shelves and shelves (and more shelves) of travel books, including two in my room. When I'm really feeling apathetic, I can perch on the edge of my bed and decide what looks like fun. Nepal? Croatia? Myanmar? New Zealand? Californi--wait, been there.  I'm also still slogging through Harry Potter und der Kammer des Schreckens (Chamber of Secrets), in an effort to hone my German reading skills. You will be disappointed to hear than He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named's middle name is different in the German version. As are characters like Hermine, Magda (Marge), and Myrte (Myrtle). Oh, Harry Potter. I love you in any language. Sighhhh...

    My neighborhood is quite nice, though certainly nothing out of the ordinary. What is lovely, however, are the street names! I love in a clump of philosopher streets: Agrippa, Erasmus, Hegel, Schopenhauer. Nearby come the fairy tale streets: Elfen, Froschkönig, Schneewittchen, Dornröschen, Frau-Holle, Erlkönig, Rotkäppchen (those being Elf St., Frog Prince St., Snow White St., Sleeping Beauty St., Frau Holle St. (not a super common one, but Brothers Grimm), Erl King St., and Red Riding Hood Place). Over towards the next little suburb are the Wagnerian streets: Brünnhilden, Walküren, Wotan, Siegfried, Rheingold, Nibelungen. It makes my walks quite picturesque! And yes, I have carefully crafted my trek to my language course to go down Erlkönigstr. Obviously.

     Speaking of picturesque things, let me tell you about my new favorite Bavarian thing. Easter trees! A tradition I will certainly be adding to my ever-growing list of things to bring back to the states. Holiday decorations here are not inside the houses, nor are they endless strings of lights. They're trees! People decorate their trees! At Christmas people hung ornaments on the trees in their front yards, and now that Easter is swiftly approaching it's even cuter!
     Also, I've never lived somewhere where spring actually matters before. It's sort of exciting. In California, we vaguely notice it's somewhere around March 21, mutter, "Oh hey, it's probably spring now or something," and continue our sunbathing. But here, when the trees finally start shaking off the dead leaves (I thought those were supposed to come off in fall? Apparently not) and begin to show some green, it's cause for celebration. Lying in the sun last week in 65 degree weather practically gave me heatstroke. It was amazing. People are perpetually eating ice cream to celebrate the weather change, and the parks and public areas are packed. I think the day the weather got nice, everyone ran to the market and bought spring flowers, because pretty much every yard is boasting brightly colored tulips and daffodils to celebrate the change of the season.

Okay, this one's from a website, but it IS in Germany. Someday this will be my tree. OH my goodness.


Pretty trees outside the kindergarten!




Some brief comments on general German weirdness:
     Eggs are sold in tens. As are basically everything. The metric system invades the supermarket too.  You can buy black beans at two places in the whole of Munich. American-style food is everywhere, but never the stuff you'd expect. Most common: American marshmallows, American crunchy peanut butter, American sandwich bread.  Also, the supermarket sells pre-hardboiled, pre-painted eggs. Year-round. Where's the fun in that?
     Dogs are not (or rarely) neutered. I'm still taken aback when I see a cute dog hopping about in the U-Bahn, with his...well, you can imagine the picture, I'm sure.
     Getting bags at the market is so not done. You bring your own basket. Obviously.
     It doesn't matter if the sun's out and it's 65 degrees, if it's still early April, you wear a heavy jacket and closed-toed shoes. I get a lot of funny looks.
     Germans almost never pay with a credit card. Whereas in the US, I probably use a debit/credit card for the vast majority of my purchases, here I never have. People carry cash. That's just what they do. It helps that tax is included in prices of food, so if you go to a restaurant and get a 6 euro entree and a 2 euro cappuccino, your bill will be 8 euros. Every time. It makes it really easy. Also, the idea of a tip here is quite simple: forget that 15% crap, just round to the nearest whole number. Your total is 9,42? Give them 10. Done and done.
     Maybe this is just because I live in a relatively secluded area, but I don't really get the whole blackout shades thing. Our house has, on nearly every window that isn't surrounded by a hedge, a blackout shade that blocks out all outside light. Helps the kids get to sleep, of course, but the idea of blocking out all the outside if weird to me. I mean, on your bedroom window, sure, but who was planning on dancing naked on their balcony anyway?
     At least in my family, kids don't drink milk. Or water. They drink juice. With every meal. I can hear my dentist cringing from here. It still seems weird to me. Granted, they generally drink half-juice, half-water, but still! So much unnecessary sugar!

Moving on:
    I try, for the sake of the purity of this blog as a foreign-adventures blog and not a personal-ranting one, to keep my personal political opinions out of my entries, so I share this purely as a fascinating piece of foreign view of America.
    So you know that whole America's-been-having-a-little-trouble-lately thing? I don't know if Americans think it's that big of a deal. But here overseas, it's not thought of as a big deal, it's an established fact. My evidence: here are some of the top-selling political books right now in German bookstores.

  • Amerikas Letzte Chance: Warum sich die Weltmacht neu erfinden muss
         
    America's Last Chance: Why the World Power needs to reinvent themselves
  • Der Amerikanische Patient: Was der drohende Kollaps der USA für die Welt bedeutet
         
    The American Patient: What the imminent collapse of the USA means for the world
  • Was ist mit den Amis los?: Warum sie an Barack Obama hassen, was wir lieben
           
    What is wrong with the Americans?: Why they hate about Barack Obama what we love
  • Tea Party: Die weiße Wut: Was Amerikas Neue Rechte so gefährlich macht
           
    Tea Party: The White Wrath: What American's New Right is so dangerous
It was really sort of a shock to me that Europe (or at least Germany) takes it so for granted that the US is going down the toilet. Are people in the states aware that this is the way the rest of the world is looking at them? 

    Anyway, that's probably about it for this blog entry. My ride to Vienna leaves Munich in...9 hours, which means in that time I need to pack, shower, eat, get to where my ride leaves from (an hour away), and, you know...sleep. Happy weekend to everyone, and frohe Ostern!

Pretty girl painting